DOI: 10.3390/cosmetics13040170 ISSN: 2079-9284

Targeting the Dual Nature of Facial Aging: A Clinical and Instrumental Study of a Multi-Active Cream on Static and Dynamic Wrinkles

Han Tao, Qian Wang, Qiansong Yu, Xiaosheng Liu, Sue Chang, Yun Li

Background: Static (at-rest) and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles are complementary hallmarks of facial aging. While static wrinkles are widely studied, the objective quantification of dynamic wrinkles during active facial movement remains a novel and underexplored frontier. Quantifying both phenotypes under real-life product use requires objective, non-invasive endpoints alongside standardized clinical grading. Aim: This study aimed to evaluate the clinical and instrumental efficacy of a multi-active topical cream on static and dynamic wrinkles over 8 weeks of twice-a-day use. Methods: After a 2-week washout, we conducted a monocentric, open-label study on 62 Chinese women (25–55) who used the topical cream twice daily for 8 weeks (per-protocol n = 49; dynamic-wrinkle subset n = 41; dermatologist 0–9 grading at T0/Timm/W4/W8). The instrumental endpoints were PRIMOS-CR wrinkle morphometry (forehead, crow’s feet) and periocular high-frequency ultrasound (UC22). Dynamic wrinkles were assessed via high-speed smile imaging (max P10; mean P1–P10). Statistics comprised Wilcoxon’s tests for dermatologist-graded (ordinal) endpoints and repeated-measures ANOVA with Dunnett’s tests for continuous instrumental endpoints (α = 0.05). Results: Improvements were evident at Timm (periorbital elasticity −17.70%, global-face elasticity −15.23%, firmness −19.47%, smoothness −20.16%, radiance −25.75%; all p < 0.001). By Week 8, dermatologist-graded wrinkles generally decreased: crow’s feet −26.89%, under-eye −33.74%, glabellar −35.30%, forehead −34.69% (all p < 0.001). PRIMOS showed reductions in wrinkle area/length (forehead area −8.69%, length −12.05%; crow’s feet area −8.70%, length −16.03%; all p < 0.001). Ultrasound indicated increased periocular epidermal thickness (+26.57%) and density (+12.69%) (both p = 0.005). Dynamic-wrinkle grades improved during smiling (under-eye: max −12.64%, mean −15.74%; crow’s feet: max −15.97%, mean −16.89%; all p < 0.001), with reductions across P1–P10. Conclusions: In real-life, with twice-daily use, the multi-active cream demonstrated significant within-subject improvements in both static and dynamic (expression-linked) wrinkles, as supported by dermatologist grading, PRIMOS 3D wrinkle morphometry, and periocular high-frequency ultrasound.

More from our Archive