Sweetpotato-Derived Cosmetic Actives: Chemistry, Skin Mechanisms, and Formulation

This narrative review evaluates sweetpotato (Ipomoea batatas L.) leaves and pigmented roots as sources of cosmetic ingredients. The foliage, largely discarded after root harvest, is rich in caffeoylquinic acids (CQAs), including 3,4,5-tricaffeoylquinic acid, and purple- and orange-fleshed roots supply acylated anthocyanins and β-carotene. We distinguish evidence by material and model. Purified CQAs, mostly obtained from other plant sources, reduce UV-induced collagen degradation and inflammatory signaling in skin cells, whereas direct evidence for sweetpotato extracts is limited to spectrophotometric sun protection factor estimates, the increased UV absorbance of creams, and inhibition of bacterial growth and biofilm formation at concentrations above those tolerated by keratinocytes. Translation is constrained by the molecular size and polarity (di- and tri-CQAs, 516–679 Da), acyl migration and oxidation at near-neutral pH, pH-dependent anthocyanin color, and reliance on surrogate enzymes such as mushroom tyrosinase. We propose a tiered workflow with mandatory and claim-dependent steps covering extract specification, human-target assays, skin models, permeation, stability, non-animal safety assessments, and claim substantiation under United States and European Union rules. Current evidence supports positioning these extracts as antioxidant and SPF-supporting ingredients, not as UV filters or antimicrobial actives.