DOI: 10.1111/jocd.70290 ISSN: 1473-2130

Novel Cyclized Hexapeptide‐9 Outperforms Retinol Against Skin Aging: A Randomized, Double‐Blinded, Active‐ and Vehicle‐Controlled Clinical Trial

Huailong Chang, Kan Tao, Yuge Yang, Yanling Wang, Mengru Ge, Xiaoli Wang, Shengnan Tang, Haining Yu

ABSTRACT

Background

The functionality and regenerative capacity of skin progressively deteriorate with aging. Topical use of peptides with a hyper‐safety profile has been implicated in replacing retinol for skin anti‐aging use, but is limited due to low stability and poor skin permeability.

Aims

In this randomized, double‐blinded, active‐ and vehicle‐controlled clinical trial, we aim to evaluate the efficacy of an innovative cyclized hexapeptide‐9 (CHP‐9) with increased stability and skin permeability on skin aging compared to retinol.

Methods

Healthy volunteers with aging skin were randomly assigned to twice‐daily topical use of 0.002% CHP‐9 serum, 0.002% retinol serum, or vehicle serum for 56 days.

Results

CHP‐9 treatment significantly decreased the number, area, and roughness of both crow's feet (−2.20, 95% CI: −4.38, −0.03; −3.95, 95% CI: −5.80, −2.11; −1.95, 95% CI: −3.30, −0.59, respectively) and forehead wrinkles (−2.88, 95% CI: −4.21, −1.56; −4.90, 95% CI: −5.97, −3.82; −3.96, 95% CI: −5.92, −2.01, respectively), while retinol only decreased the area of crow's feet (−2.23, 95% CI: −3.86, −0.60) and the number and area of forehead wrinkles (−1.05, 95% CI:‐1.69, −0.41). Except for the roughness of crow's feet, CHP‐9 demonstrated significantly larger extent of effects than retinol did on all other outcomes. Furthermore, long‐term use of CHP‐9 showed time‐dependent augmentation in its potency to reduce the number of crow's feet, and the number, area, and roughness of forehead wrinkles.

Conclusions

In conclusion, CHP‐9 is more potent than retinol in improving skin aging‐related symptoms, especially for long‐term use. Cyclization of collagen peptides may present a preventive/therapeutic option for skin aging.

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