HX21 The evolution of skin camouflage: from cosmetic innovation to medical intervention

Abstract

Skin camouflage has a long and detailed history, shaped by social change, medical innovation and the work of pioneering individuals. A major early milestone occurred in 1928 when Lydia O’Leary (1900–1982), an American university graduate, developed a foundation to conceal her own port-wine stain. In 1932, this led to Covermark becoming the first camouflage foundation to receive a patent from the US Patent and Trademark Office, allowing camouflage products to be recognized as a medical treatment rather than just a cosmetic accessory. During World War II, medical skin camouflage advanced rapidly through plastic surgery, led by Sir Archibald McIndoe (1900–1960). Recognizing that psychological recovery was as important as surgical repair, McIndoe commissioned chemist Thomas Blake in the early 1940s to develop a waterproof, long-lasting skin camouflage cream for injured airmen. After the war, skin camouflage expanded beyond plastic surgery into wider clinical use, led by Joyce Allsworth, a Women’s Royal Air Force plotter, who broadened colour ranges and helped bring products such as Veil to public sale in 1952. This was followed by the introduction of medically recognized brands, including Keromask in the late 1950s, which was recognized by the British Medical Association shortly afterwards. Institutional support grew as the British Red Cross formally adopted hospital-­based skin camouflage services in 1959, and a Department of Health and Social Services survey in 1975 confirmed demand from dermatology patients, leading to funded national training programmes. These developments culminated in the founding of the British Association of Skin Camouflage (BASC) in 1985 by Joyce Allsworth, which established professional standards, education and advocacy. Today, BASC provides information and training on camouflage for a wide range of facial and body disfigurements, including scarring, burns, rosacea, acne, port-wine stains and tattoos, supporting both physical appearance and psychological wellbeing.