DOI: 10.3390/biom16081207 ISSN: 2218-273X

Hair Growth-Supporting and Follicle-Protective Potential of a Botanical-Based Supplement Ingredient: In Vitro, Ex Vivo, and Molecular Docking Studies

Adrián García, Andrea Cavagnino, Pau Navarro, Olivier Gouin, Cristina Guillem, Anaïs Bobier, Cristina Calabuig, Nuria Caturla

Hair follicle homeostasis is influenced by hormonal pathways, the scalp microenvironment, and environmental stressors such as pollution, UV radiation, and oxidative stress. Elissara®, a polyphenol-enriched botanical ingredient, has shown benefits for scalp moisturization, barrier function, sebum regulation, and redness. Building on these scalp-level benefits, we investigated Elissara’s effects on follicular signaling, survival-associated biomarkers, oxidative damage, and androgen-related pathways as potential contributors to follicular health, using in silico, in vitro, and ex vivo models. Molecular docking (AutoDock Vina) of the main Elissara bioactives (oleuropein, hydroxytyrosol, verbascoside, carnosic acid, carnosol, and quercetin) identified SRD5A2 as a favorable predicted target, with individual binding energies ranging from −8.70 to −9.73 kcal/mol, approaching finasteride/dutasteride reference values. As an exploratory approach, simultaneous multi-ligand docking showed favorable global docking outputs for several targets, indicating that multiple bioactives could be structurally accommodated within complementary regions of the binding site. In human follicle dermal papilla cells, Elissara significantly increased BrdU incorporation to 245.70% of control at 0.002% and reduced SRD5A2 protein levels by 18.48% at 0.006%. In human scalp explants, Elissara at 200 µg/mL increased β-catenin, Bcl-2, and collagen IV under basal conditions and counteracted acute PM2.5/UVA-induced alterations in β-catenin, Ki67-positive cells, Bcl-2, IGF-1, collagen IV, and protein carbonylation. Together, these findings support the potential of Elissara as a promising nutricosmetic ingredient for supporting follicular resilience through multiple follicle-relevant pathways. Clinical studies assessing hair growth outcomes are needed to determine whether these preclinical findings translate into measurable benefits.

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