Fe3+-Mediated Interfacial Polyphenol Coatings on Hair Fibers Using an Aronia melanocarpa Extract
Su Yan, Yinghui Gu, Yifei Kong, Yudi Xiang, Bohan Yang, Xiaomeng Su, Li Sheng, Kai SongAronia melanocarpa contains abundant phenolic compounds, including procyanidins, flavonols, flavan-3-ols, and phenolic acids, but its pronounced astringency limits its broader use in food applications. Catechol and other oxygen-donor motifs in plant phenolics are known to associate with Fe3+ and can support metal–phenolic assembly. In this study, ultrasound-assisted cellulase–pectinase extraction was used to recover an A. melanocarpa polyphenol extract, which was subsequently combined with Fe3+ to construct a plant-derived hair dye coating on keratin fibers. Under optimized extraction conditions, the total phenolic yield reached 82.315 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g dry fruit. A limited targeted LC–MS/MS panel was used to evaluate 12 selected non-anthocyanin phenolic analytes, including procyanidin dimers, a flavan-3-ol, flavonols, and phenolic acids; the contribution of the pH-sensitive anthocyanin fraction was not resolved. Among the tested metal ions, Fe3+ produced the strongest chromogenic response. The optimized L-cysteine pretreatment–Fe3+ mordanting–polyphenol dyeing sequence produced a ΔE* of 55.42. Adsorption experiments empirically described the uptake behavior of the polyphenol extract, whereas complementary surface, spectroscopic, elemental, diffraction, thermal, and wettability analyses were consistent with the presence of a relatively uniform Fe-containing polyphenol coating at the hair fiber interface. Neither the adsorption-model fits nor the individual characterization techniques uniquely resolved the underlying molecular mechanism. Preliminary HET-CAM, single-exposure dermal, and acute eye irritation assessments showed no obvious acute irritation under the tested conditions. An exploratory image-based analysis examined whether standardized hair tress photographs could approximate a predefined colorimetric score. Because only 30 independent original samples were available and no external validation was performed, this analysis was treated solely as a proof of concept. This laboratory proof-of-concept extends established Fe3+–polyphenol assembly chemistry to a compositionally complex A. melanocarpa extract for hair fiber coloration. Further work is required to clarify anthocyanin behavior, simplify the sequential protocol, and benchmark its performance against representative commercial hair dyes.