Enhancing pashmina fabric aesthetics: Assessing the dyeing efficacy of indigenous wild underutilised plants

Abstract

This study explores the use of dyes extracted from Berberis aristata and Bistorta amplexicaulis for dyeing pashmina fabric. The effectiveness of these plant‐derived dyes was evaluated based on colour strength, absorption efficiency and fastness properties including washing, light and rubbing. Results indicate that both Berberis aristata and Bistorta amplexicaulis dyes significantly enhance the colour quality of pashmina fabric, with simultaneous mordanting yielding the highest colour strength and fastness properties, followed by premordanting. Berberis aristata exhibited poor light fastness (1), but showed excellent rubbing and washing fastness (5), while Bistorta amplexicaulis demonstrated good light fastness (4) and (4/5), as well as excellent performance in rubbing and washing fastness (5). Dye concentrations positively impacted colour strength, with higher concentrations resulting in deeper shades. The percentage absorption of the dye into the fabric was notably high, reflecting effective dye uptake. Mordant enhanced the colour quality of the fabric because of the increased efficiency in absorption, colour strength, colour coordinates and fastness grades in terms of washing, light and rubbing, respectively. These findings suggest that dyes from Berberis aristata and Bistorta amplexicaulis are promising for textile applications, offering vibrant, durable colours and adaptable dyeing methods.