Effects of knit structure and washing on bending and compression properties of organic cotton double jersey knitted fabrics

This study investigates the effects of washing on the structural characteristics, bending, and compression properties of double jersey knitted fabrics made from 10 × 4 tex organic cotton yarn in 1×1 rib, half Milano rib, and Milano rib structures. Structural characteristics (number of wales per centimeter, number of courses per centimeter, fabric stitch density, stitch length, mass per unit area, and thickness) were measured before and after washing. Mechanical properties were assessed through bending properties (drape coefficient, stiffness, and bending modulus), and compression properties (compressibility, thickness loss, and compressive resilience). The results indicate that both the knit structure and washing significantly influence the mechanical properties of the organic cotton fabrics. Washing induced dimensional shrinkage, which altered structural characteristics and led to reductions in most measured properties, with exceptions observed in the stiffness and bending modulus of half Milano rib fabrics in the wale direction and thickness loss in Milano rib fabrics. Overall, washing enhanced bending behavior while reducing compression performance. Among the examined structures, 1×1 rib fabrics showed the highest stability, with the smallest changes in mechanical properties after washing. These findings highlight the critical role of knit structure in determining fabric performance after washing and provide practical guidance for designers in selecting structural parameters to optimize bending and compression properties.