Development and Optimization of Retinyl Palmitate-Loaded Oleogel and Nanoemulsion Designed with Potential for Microneedling Treatment

Background/Objectives: The development of novel formulations that could have beneficial properties combined with dermatological procedures such as microneedling remains a challenge. The group of patients that could benefit from such a novel protocol is large and includes patients with acne scars. Both topical retinyl palmitate and the microneedling procedure have strong fibroblast-stimulating properties. Methods: In the study 5% w/w retinyl palmitate-loaded nanoemulsions and oleogel were prepared and examined to obtain formulations that meet criteria eligible for formulations combined with microneedling. All formulations were designed for aseptic preparation. Multiple nanoemulsion compositions were tested to select the optimal one. The selected 5% w/w retinyl palmitate-loaded nanoemulsion and oleogel were tested. Results: While retinyl palmitate-loaded oleogel met proper pharmacopeial norms for drug content and stability, the retinyl palmitate-loaded nanoemulsion, even though it demonstrated adequate physical parameters, maintained active substance losses during the manufacturing process above required limits. Conclusions: The retinyl palmitate-loaded nanoemulsion and oleogel remain promising formulations that could potentially be combined with microneedling. Considering its high sensitivity to manufacturing conditions, preparation of the retinyl palmitate-loaded nanoemulsion still remains a challenge.