CD26 More than meets the eye: potential contact allergens in UK micellar waters

Abstract

Micellar waters are widely used leave-on cleansers for removal of facial and eye makeup. Although marketed as gentle, they may contain ingredients capable of contributing to facial and periocular contact dermatitis, yet their ingredient profiles remain poorly characterized in the literature. This study was carried out to identify potential allergens and irritants present in micellar waters available in the UK. In August 2025, micellar water products available across 18 major UK health and beauty retailers were identified. Ingredient lists were extracted from retailer websites, recorded and analysed descriptively. In total 111 micellar waters from 64 brands were identified, containing 587 unique ingredients (mean 20 per product, range 7–50). Humectants were common, with glycerine present in 87 of 111 (78%). Diols were identified in 78%, including propanediol (28%), butylene glycol (23%), caprylyl glycol (18%) and hexylene glycol (17%). Antioxidants included vitamin E derivatives (36%), vitamin C derivatives (9%) and butylated hydroxytoluene (9%). Fragrance ingredients were present in 49%, including fragrance/parfum (42%), limonene (14%), linalool (9%) and geraniol (5%). Botanical ingredients were present in 68%, and one or more essential oils in 11%. Preservatives included phenoxyethanol (41%), sodium benzoate (32%), potassium sorbate (22%), ethylhexylglycerin (16%), benzyl alcohol (12%), chlorphenesin (8%) and polyaminopropyl biguanide (6%). Glucoside-derived ingredients were present in 32%, including decyl glucoside (17%), caprylyl/capryl glucoside (6%) and coco-glucoside (5%). Other commonly identified ingredients included citric acid (67%), panthenol (22%), niacinamide (14%), PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (11%) and cetrimonium bromide (11%). Among 30 products marketed for sensitive skin, 40% contained fragrance ingredients and 60% contained botanicals. Micellar waters contain recognized contact allergens and should be considered in facial and eyelid eczema. Limitations in patch test coverage, due to absence of commercially available haptens and limited representation within British Society for Cutaneous Allergy series, support own-product testing and ongoing refinement of patch test series to reflect evolving cosmetic exposures.