Application of a novel ingredient Blend promotes hair growth by modulating Wnt/β‐catenin signaling, DP inductivity, and boosting elastin expression in healthy human scalp hair follicles ex vivo
Ilaria Piccini, Ioanna Papasideri, Thomas Rouille, Onur Egriboz, Marta Bertolini, Janin Edelkamp, Felipe JimenezABSTRACT
Objectives
Elastin is an emerging yet underexplored regulator of human hair follicle (HF) physiology. This study evaluated a novel multi‐compound Blend for its elastogenic and hair growth–promoting effects in ex vivo human HFs, compared with isopropyl cloprostenate (IPC), a prostaglandin analog used in cosmetic lash growth formulations.
Methods
Microdissected anagen VI human HFs were cultured with vehicle, IPC, or a Blend containing tropoelastin, peptides, plant extracts, and hepatocyte growth factor. Hair shaft elongation, hair cycle stage, matrix keratinocyte proliferation/apoptosis, elastin deposition, dermal papilla (DP) inductivity markers (alkaline phosphatase, versican), and secretion of the Wnt/β‐catenin inhibitor DKK1 were assessed by quantitative (immuno)histomorphometry, immunofluorescence, and ELISA.
Results
The Blend was non‐cytotoxic and reduced melanin clumping. It significantly increased elastin deposition in the DP, dermal cup, bulge, and infundibulum, whereas IPC showed no elastogenic effect. The Blend prolonged the anagen phase, lowered hair cycle score, and stimulated keratinocyte proliferation more effectively than IPC, with both promoting hair shaft elongation. Additionally, only the Blend enhanced DP inductivity, significantly increasing alkaline phosphatase activity and tendentially increasing versican expression, while both compounds (Blend and IPC) only modestly reduced DKK1 secretion.
Conclusion
These findings highlight a novel role for elastin in maintaining HF structure and function. The tested Blend promotes hair growth potentially through enhanced elastogenesis, DP inductivity, and modulation of Wnt signaling. Further investigation is warranted to elucidate the activity of each ingredient in the Blend and to confirm its clinical efficacy.