A numerical modelling approach for better differentiation of boulders transported by a tsunami, storm and storm‐induced energetic infragravity waves
Masashi Watanabe, Kazuhisa Goto, Volker Roeber, Hironobu Kan, Fumihiko Imamura- Earth-Surface Processes
- Geophysics
Abstract
Coastal boulders are often indicators for past extreme wave events. In fact, coastal boulder distribution induced by storm waves where infragravity wave is dominated (energetic IG wave) may be similar to that caused by tsunamis; however, this assumption is yet to be investigated. We show that factors responsible for generating energetic IG waves under storm scenarios are not identical to those affecting the boulders’ transport distances. Our results indicate that storm waves typically only transport boulders over short distances as compared to boulders deposited by tsunamis, even when energetic IG waves are being generated. When the dimensionless transport distance of a boulder (= transport distance of a boulder/offshore wave height) is less than 4.0 ×10 over planar topography and 3.0 ×10 over reef topography, both waves can potentially be responsible for the transport distance. In this case, whether a reasonably‐sized storm or tsunami can explain a boulder location in a study area should be investigated through detailed numerical modelling. We found a clear relationship between the dimensionless transport distance of tsunami boulders and the Iribarren number, and it is plausible to directly estimate offshore wave height or wavelength from the tsunami boulder distribution and beach slope without numerical simulation.